Diamonds 101: The Asscher Cut

Resembling the emerald cut, the Asscher cut offers excellent clarity and plenty of fire, combined with symmetry not found with other cuts. We love it so much at Lauren B, we made it our logo! Is it the right center stone for you?

History of the Asscher Cut

While many diamond cuts date back hundreds of years, the Asscher cut is relatively new. It was developed in 1902 by Joseph Asscher. Joseph was part of a long line of well-regarded jewelers, and this would become his signature contribution to the world. The cut quickly became popular with the wealthy and became synonymous with the Art Deco movement of the 1920s and 30s thanks to its clean lines and incredible brilliance.

Joseph Asscher went on to patent his new design making it the first-ever copyrighted diamond cut. During the height of WWII, the family was unable to renew the patent due to the ensuing war thus enabling other jewelers to start cutting diamonds in the now-popular, geometric style. Today, the Asscher cut is one of the most popular step-cuts for its crisp lines and near-perfect symmetrical faceting.

What to Look For in an Asscher

If the stunning beauty, clarity, and symmetry of the Asscher cut have convinced you that this is the right center stone for your engagement ring, it’s important to educate yourself on what to look for when shopping.

Cut

The Asscher cut is described as a square version of the emerald cut. It features noticeable corners that make it resemble an octagon, despite its square shape. Additional step facets create more depth and scintillation, unlike emerald cuts.

Color

Since Asschers are step-cuts, they are able to hide color a little better than brilliant cut diamonds. With this, we recommend choosing a diamond marked J color or higher. This helps ensure that your diamond shines white and bright.

Clarity

Clarity is an essential consideration with diamonds, especially step-cut stones due to the sheer visibility. Because of the nature of the faceting, we recommend a VS2 clarity at a minimum. Anything below that may result in visible inclusions.

Ratio

Asscher cut diamonds are intended to have an overall square shape, although the cut corners give the stone an octagonal look. This means that ratio is crucial to the overall appearance of your diamond. Asscher cut diamonds should have a ratio of 1:1 up to 1:1.1, but no more. Any longer and it will essentially become an emerald-cut diamond.

Asschers vs. Other Shapes

Asschers are step-cuts, which means they share some similarities with other step-cuts, like the emerald cut. It is also one of two distinct square cuts. So how do Asschers compare to other cuts?

Asscher vs. Emerald

Asschers and emeralds are both step-cuts. However, emerald cuts are rectangular with cut corners while Asschers are square with cut corners. Other key differences that set the two styles apart include the smaller table, higher crown, and larger step facets on Asschers, creating greater brilliance than what you’ll find with emerald cut stones. Both stones have their place, certainly, but they tend to appeal to different people. If you’re on the fence about whether to choose an Asscher-cut stone or an emerald cut, we recommend comparing them side by side to see the differences firsthand (pun intended).

Asscher vs. Princess

Princess cuts are true squares; they are the only popularized shape with pointed corners whereas most other shapes have rounded corners or cut corners. Unlike Asschers which are step-cut diamonds, princess cuts are brilliant cuts, meaning they have greater overall fire while Asschers yield greater clarity. Both are stunningly beautiful, it’s just a matter of deciding which is right for your personal sense of style.

Stunning Lauren B Asscher Cut Diamonds

We love this stunning cut and have hundreds of loose stones on hand to help you create your ideal engagement ring or wedding band. Explore some of our favorite designs featuring Asscher diamonds and gemstones.

4.43 carat Asscher Cut Lab Diamond Bezel Set Engagement Ring

5.01 carat Asscher Cut Diamond Engagement Ring

2.50 Carat Asscher Diamond Prong Basket Eternity Band

6 carat TW Asscher Cut Bezel Lab Grown Diamond Studs

Famous Asscher Cut Rings

The Asscher cut has been around for well over a century at this point and it remains one of the most popular with celebrities.

Elizabeth Taylor

Liz Taylor’s signature diamond rig was a massive 33.19-carat Asscher-cut diamond given to her by Richard Burton in 1968. She wore it for decades and it became her signature piece of jewelry.

3.02 ct Asscher Cut Diamond Engagement Ring

Pippa Middleton

When Pippa Middleton got engaged to former racecar driver and hedge fund manager, James Matthews, there was no shortage of sparkle in her ring. Her 3.5 carat halo engagement ring stunned, and for good reason too: the center stone is of royal origin!

Asscher Cut Moissanite Bezel Set Halo Engagement Ring

Is this the Center Stone Shape for You?

The Asscher cut rocketed into popularity during the Art Deco movement back in the 1920s and 1930s, but it is once more gaining prominence. It’s particularly well suited for use in antique and retro-style rings, but it looks equally stunning in modern settings. At Lauren B, we offer thousands of high-quality loose stones in all sizes, allowing us to create a custom ring that perfectly reflects your tastes and delivers an engagement ring that you’ll treasure for decades to come.